This step by step diy project is about 8×10 cheap shed plans. I have designed this small shed so you can use it for basic store. This is not a fancy shed that requires thousands and thousands of dollars to make, but a super basic utility shed that can be built on a budget and relatively quickly. The structure of the shed requires just 2x4s and it features a large 4′ door and a gable roof with a 20 degree slope. Read the local building codes so you make sure my shed complies with your specific requirements. Take a look over the rest of my woodworking plans, if you want to get more building inspiration. Premium Plans for this shed available in the Shop.
When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day. See all my Premium Plans HERE.
Projects made from these plans
8×10 Cheap Shed Plans
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- A – 3 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 120″ long SKIDS
- B – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 120″ long, 9 pieces – 93″long FLOOR
- C – 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 48″x96″ long, 1 piece – 24″x96″ long FLOORING
- D – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 120″ long, 9 pieces – 71″ long 2xSIDE WALL
- E – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 89″ long, 7 pieces – 71″ long BACK WALL
- F – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 20 1/2″ long, 1 piece – 89″ long, 6 pieces – 71″ long, 2 pieces – 67 1/2″ long, 2 pieces – 51″ long FRONT WALL
- G – 18 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 52″ long, 2 pieces – 16 1/4″ long RAFTERS
- H – 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 48″x96″ long, 2 pieces – 24″x48″ long, 2 pieces – 3 1/8″x48″ long, 2 pieces – 3 1/8″x72″ long ROOF
- I – 4 pieces of T1-11 siding – 48″x96″ long, 4 pieces – 48″x78″ long, 2 pieces – 24″x78″ long SIDING
- I – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 55 3/4″ long, 2 pieces – 121 1/4″ long OVERHANGS
- J – 110 sq ft of tar paper, 110 sq ft of asphalt shingles ROOFING
- 3 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 10′
- 13 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 10′
- 13 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 8′
- 20 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 12′
- 3 pieces of 1/2″ plywood – 4’x8′
- 3 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 48″x96″
- 9 pieces of T1-11 – 48″x96″
- 110 sq ft of tar paper, 110 sq ft of asphalt shingles
- 8d nails, 2 1/2″ screws, 3 1/2″ screws
- 1 5/8″ screws
- wood filler , wood glue, stain/paint
- rafter ties
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Hammer, Tape measure, Framing square, Level
Miter saw, Drill machinery, Screwdriver, Sander
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- PART 1: 8×10 Cheap Shed Plans
- PART 2: 8×10 Cheap Shed Door and Trims Plans
DIY Cheap Shed – Video
How to build a 8×10 cheap shed
The first step of the project is to build the floor frame for the 8×10 storage shed. Considering this is The Cheap Shed Project, I will be using 2x4s for the joists. However, if you want to store heavier items and you are willing to pay the difference, using 2x6s for the joists will make the floor sturdier. Align the edges with attention, drill pilot holes and insert 3 1/2″ screws. Make sure the corners are square and place the joists every 16″ on center.
Select the location for the shed, so it suit your needs and complies with the local building codes. Lay the 4×4 beams on the surface and then secure the frame to the skids with 3 1/2″ screws or using rafter ties. You could also use cider blocks to lift the floor frame from the ground and protect it from moisture.
Fit 3/4″ plywood sheets to the floor frame and align the edges flush. Leave no gaps between the plywood sheets and insert 1 5/8″ screws, every 8″ along the joists. Invest in pressure treated plywood, as it is more durable.
Build the side walls from 2×4 lumber, using the info from my plans. Place everything on the floor of the shed and use 3 1/2″ screws or 16d nails through the plates into the studs. Place the studs every 16″ on center and make sure the corners are square. If you want to save a few bucks, you could go with the studs every 24″ on center, but I show you how I would frame it for myself.
Build the back wall from 2×4 lumber. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the studs. Place the studs every 16″ on center.
Framing the front wall is a little bit more complex, as you will need to leave a door opening. You can adjust the size of the opening, but I am conservative and I go for a 4′ wide door. Notice the 2×4 double header (with 1/2″ plywood in between) and the cripple studs.
Lift the wall frames and then attach them to the floor of the shed. Align the edges flush, drill pilot holes through the bottom plates and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the floor. Moreover, you need to lock the adjacent walls together tightly, by drilling pilot holes and insert 3 1/2″ screws to lock them together tightly.
Continue the 8×10 utility shed project by starting to build the roof. Use 2x4s for the rafters and make angle cuts at both ends, as shown in my free plans.
Lay the rafters on the floor of the shed, against a straight edges. Use 1/2″ plywood for the gussets or you could simply buy metal plates. Leave no gaps between the rafters and align the edges with attention. Attach the gussets and secure them into place with 1 5/8″ screws.
Fit the trusses to the top of the shed and place them every 16″ on center. Plumb the trusses with a spirit level and lock them to the shed frame with ties. Place the trusses every 16″ on center.
Use 2×4 lumber for the gable end supports. Toenail the supports to the frame of the 8×10 shed. This back support will make fitting the siding sheets a lot easier.
Attach the 1/2″ plywood or OSB sheets to the roof of the shed. Cut the sheets as shown in the plans and then lock them to the trusses, every 8″, using 1 5/8″ screws.
Next, you need to fit the T1-11 siding sheets to the exterior of the shed. Use a saw to make the cuts to the gable top and to the door opening. Align the edges flush and use 8d nails to secure the sheets to the framing, every 8″.
Cut and fit the T-11 siding sheets to the back of the shed. Leave no gaps between the sheets and use 8d nails to lock them into place tightly.
Fit the siding sheets to the sides of the storage shed, as well.
Fit the 2×4 overhangs to the front of the shed. Use a miter saw to make the bevel cuts to one end of the boards. Drill pilot holes and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the boards to the front and back of the shed.
Fit the side overhangs to the sides of the utility shed. Secure the boards to the front and back overhangs.
Cover the roof of the shed with roofing felt, making sure the strips overlap at least 2″. Secure the tar paper to the plywood sheets with roofing staples. In addition, cut a 12″ piece for the top ridge. Fit the side drip edges over the roofing felt, while the bottom drip edges should be fit under.
If you like this design, you should check out PART 2 of the project for complete plans on how to build the door and the shed ramp. If you want to build a 8×10 heavy duty shed that is designed for heavy snow loads and winds, you should take a look over my plans HERE. I have over 100 free shed plans on my blog, so feel free to use the search functions.
This is a simple utility shed that has been designed so you can store things in your garden without having to pay an enormous amount of money on a fancy shed. I have optimized everything about this shed so you can keep the costs down and still build a durable structure. Premium Plans for this shed available in the Shop.
This woodworking project was about 8×10 cheap shed plans free. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.
How can i purchase these plans for this 8 X 10 cheap shed?
All my plans are free. See here to get them: http://myoutdoorplans.com/faq/
In the end, how much would you say you spent on material for this shed? (not including the tools!)
All in, I spent right around $850. I used pressure treated 2x6s for the flooring and got a decent deal on siding so I think those items probably balance each other out.
If I add a Top plate to the walls is that going to mess up the roof plans?
If you add top plates an all perimeter, it doesn’t change the roof. Just the siding sheets need to be longer.
How do I cut a 20 degree slope with a circular saw and a pencil? You gave us the inches for the other end of the rafter – why not for the 20 degree end? It seems like it would have been simple enough to do.
You use a miter saw or a circular saw and a framing square.
What is the roof pitch and any tips on how to cut the tail and seat cuts.
Pitch is 4 1/2 : 12. Use a carpentry square and a circular saw to cut the rafters.
I’m a little concerned about the 2×4 “overhangs”. Seems like the way they’re attached that they would easily sag. They’re just butted up the to wall and screwed through the edge??
Pocket holes and screws.
HOW do you download the plans? I don’t see a link anywhere.
Read the site FAQs