16×16 Gable Shed Plans

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This step by step diy project is about 16×16 gable shed plans. I have designed this shed with a gable roof so you can store outdoor furniture and other items on your own property. This shed is easy enough to build by anyone with basic carpentry knowledge. If you add a few windows to one side of the shed, you can use it a workshop. Take a look over the rest of my woodworking plans, if you want to get more building inspiration. Remember that you need to select the site for the shed with attention and that you have to comply with a few legal regulations.

When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day.

 

 

Projects made from these plans

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Building a 16×16 Gable Shed

building-a-16x16-shed

Building-a-16×16-shed

 

  • A – 6 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 16′ long SKIDS
  • B – 2 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 192″ long, 13 pieces – 189″ long FLOOR FRAME
  • C – 6 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 48″x96″ long, 4 pieces – 48″x48″ long FLOOR
  • D – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 192″ long, 1 piece – 185″ long, 11 pieces – 81″ long 2xSIDE WALL
  • E – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 185″ long, 1 piece – 192″ long, 9 pieces – 81″ long BACK WALL
  • F – 2 piece of 2×4 lumber – 56 1/2″ long, 1 piece – 192″ long, 1 piece – 185″ long, 8 pieces – 81″ long, 2 pieces – 75 1/2″ long, 2 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 75″ long FRONT WALL
  • G – 16 pieces of T1-11 5/8″ siding – 48″x88″ long SIDING

 One day

 

 

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16×16 Gable Shed Plans

building-the-floor-frame

Building-the-floor-frame

The first step of the project is to build the frame for the floor. Cut the components at the right dimensions from 2×6 lumber. Align the edges flush and make sure the corners are square. Drill pilot holes through the rim joists and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the joists. Place the joists every 16″ on center for a professional result.

fitting-the-skids

Fitting-the-skids

Attach 4×4 skids to the floor frame. Place the skids equally spaced and use screws or hardware to lock them together tightly.

attaching-the-flooring-sheets

Attaching-the-flooring-sheets

Attach 3/4″ plywood sheets to the floor frame of the shed. Align the edges flush, making sure you leave no gaps between the components. Insert 1 5/8″ screws every 8″ through the sheets into the joists.

building-the-side-walls

Building-the-side-walls

Assemble the side walls frames from 2×4 lumber. Cut the studs and the plates at the right dimensions and then assemble the together with 3 1/2″ screws. Make sure the corners are square and align the edges flush for a neat result. Place the studs every 24″ on center for a neat result.

fitting-the-side-walls

Fitting-the-side-walls

Fit the wall frames to the floor of the 16×16 shed. Use a spirit level to plumb the walls frames and lock them temporarily into place with 3 1/2″ screws, driven through the bottom plates. As you can easily notice in the diagram, you need to use 2×4 temporarily braces to secure the side walls.

building-the-front-wall

Building-the-front-wall

Frame the front wall for the shed using 2×4 lumber for the studs and plates, while the double header requires 2×6 lumber. Cut the components at the dimensions described in the plans and then assemble everything together with 3 1/2″ screws. Make sure the corners are square and align the edges flush. You can easily adjust the size of the door opening to suit your needs.

building-the-back-wall

Building-the-back-wall

Frame the back wall in the same manner described above. You should use 3 1/2″ screws or 16d nails to lock the joints together tightly.

assembling-the-shed-frame

Assembling-the-shed-frame

Fit the front and the back wall frames to the shed floor, as shown in the plans. Make sure the corners are square and then align the edges flush. Use 3 1/2″ screws to lock the adjacent walls together tightly. In addition, drill pilot holes through the bottom plates and then insert 3 1/2″ screws into the floor of the shed.

back-wall

Back-wall

Attach 5/8″ T1-11 siding to the back wall of the shed. Align the edges flush with the top of the side walls and then secure the panels into place with 4d nails. Leave no gaps between the sheets for a professional result.

siding-panels-side-walls

Siding-panels-side-walls

Attach the siding panels to the side walls in the same manner described above. Work with attention for a neat result.

front-wall

Front-wall

In order to attach the siding panels to the front wall, you need to make a few cuts so they can fit around the door opening. Align the edges flush and then secure the panels into place with 4d nails. Leave no gaps between the sheets for a neat result.

16x16-gable-roof-shed-plans

16×16-gable-roof-shed-plans

After building the frame for the shed, you need to install the gable roof. Check out PART 2 of the project to see the step by step instructions and diagrams, as well as a material list.

16x16-shed-plans-front-view

16×16-shed-plans-front-view

This is a simple project you should be able to build in a few weeks without much effort. Don’t forget to take a look over PART 2 and PART 3 to learn how to build the roof for the shed, as well as how to frame the double front doors.

 

 

This woodworking project was about 16×16 gable shed plans free. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.

 

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35 Comments »

  1. John at - Reply

    I’m debating on putting concrete blocks under the floor to eliminate any direct contact with the ground. (For preservation purposes) I’m thinking I should place 4 or 5 under each skid. Would I be correct in thinking I should do this under all six skids? Thanks in advance!!

    • Ovidiu at - Reply

      Yes, the more the better. It is a heavy construction, so you need proper support.

  2. Guy at - Reply

    This is an excellent guide, thank you. Following the measurements listed, do you know the height of the peak of the roof? Our zoning requires the midpoint of each rafter to be 10′ or less. I think this will work, but need to make sure.

    • Ovidiu at - Reply

      It’s about there. Maybe a few inches more. You can reduce the height of the studs to compensate for that.

  3. David at - Reply

    Is there a way to modify the back wall to allow for a window or air conditioner unit? Being in the deep south, humidity is horrendous. Any time spent in the shed itself would just be miserable. How would I go about doing so?

  4. Jill at - Reply

    Do you have a plan for a 16×16 with a 4ft side porch?

    • Ovidiu at - Reply

      I don’t have plans for that yet.

  5. George at - Reply

    Hello, So I actually started building the shed, I finished floor. But when you get to last part of sheeting you have about 2inch left over since the actual size of plywood isnt 48inches like in your plan!! Same thing for the walls. The actual size of the T1-11 siding isn’t 48 inches like in your plans and you will endup with a gap at the end of every wall. This plan doesn’t make sense unless im understanding it wrong. If I do have it wrong please let me know. Thanks

    • Ovidiu at - Reply

      Maybe it’s time to change the supplier. 4’x8′ plywood and T1 11 siding should be exactly 48″ wide, otherwise you can’t even install them over the wall and floor framing.

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