16×16 Outdoor Pavilion Plans

Ovidiu 26 GapDice RANDOM PLAN

This step by step diy woodworking project is about a 16×16 outdoor pavilion plans. This article features detailed instructions for building an outdoor picnic shelter using 6×6 lumber for the structure and 2×6 beams for the rafters. Check out PART 2 of the project to learn how to frame the roof for the pavilion. Take a look over the rest of our woodworking plans, if you want to get more building inspiration.

When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day.



Projects made from these plans




16×16 Outdoor Pavilion Plans




  • A – 8 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 96″ long POSTS
  • B – 4 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 192″ long TOP RAILS
  • C – 10 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 39 1/4″ long BRACES
  • D – 2 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 51″ long, 1 piece – 192″ long TOP RIDGE

 One day



Trim---Facebook-BoxMake sure you follow us on Facebook to be the first that gets our latest plans and for some other exclusive content. Also, follow us on Pinterest to get many ideas for your backyard from all the internet! Check out our YouTube channel! See how you can Support Us with no extra costs to you. Trim---Facebook-Box-Down



Building a Backyard Pavilion Plans



The first step of the project is to layout the posts for the pavilion. Use batter boards and string to lay out everything in a professional manner. Apply the 3-4-5 rule to every corner, to make sure they are right-angled. In addition, measure the diagonals and make adjustments until they are perfectly equal.

Anchoring the posts of the anchor

Anchoring the posts of the anchor

There are several ways to lock the posts into place. Therefore, you could dig 2′ holes in the ground and set the posts into concrete, or you could use post anchors. Use tube forms so that the footing will be really strong.

Fitting the posts

Fitting the posts

If you want to set the posts in concrete, then you need to use temporarily braces. Plumb the posts with a spirit level. Read the local building codes for finding the right depth of the footings. It is essential to set the footing at the right depth to avoid them being heaved by the Winter freeze/thaw cycle.

Side top rails

Side top rails

Build the side top rails from 6×6 lumber. As you can easily notice in the diagram, you need to make notches to the ends of the beams. Use a circular saw to make 2 3/4″ deep cuts to the marked area. Make parallel cuts to the marked areas and clean the notches with a chisel. Smooth the surface with sandpaper.

Fitting the side top rails

Fitting the side top rails

Fit the rails to the sides of the outdoor pavilion. Make sure the posts are plumb and check if the corners are square. Drill pilot holes and insert 5-6″ screws to lock the components into place.



Build the top rails for the front and back of the pavilion. Make notches to the 6×6 beams, as shown in the diagram. Clean the recesses with a chisel and smooth the surface with sandpaper.

Fitting the front and back top rails

Fitting the front and back top rails

Fit the beams to the top of the pavilion. Drill pilot holes and insert 8″ screws so that you lock the rails to the posts.



Next, you need to fit the vertical supports to the top rails, as shown in the plans. Use a spirit level to plumb the supports. In addition, use corner brackets to create strong joints. Afterwards, attach the top beam to the supports. Make sure the corners are square, before locking the top ridge into place with screws.

Building the braces

Building the braces

Build the braces from 6×6 lumber. Cut both ends of the braces at 45 degrees.

Fitting the braces

Fitting the braces

Make sure the corners are square and then set the braces to the structure, as shown in the diagram. Drill pilot holes and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the posts and top rails.

Building a picnic table

Building a picnic table

Fill the holes with wood putty and let them dry out for a few hours. Smooth the surface with 100-220 grit sandpaper and remove the residues with a damp cloth.

Top Tip: Apply a few coats of paint or stain to the components, to enhance the look of the project. Check out PART 2 of the project so you learn how to build the roof for the pavilion.



This woodworking project was about 16×16 outdoor pavilion plans free. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.




Shed      Furniture      Animals      Kids      Garden      Indoor


  1. Dave at - Reply

    Love the look!

  2. Robert Moore at - Reply

    Link to part 2 is not here. Do you have 8 by 12 plans?

  3. Spencer at - Reply

    What pitch is the roof?

    • Julian at - Reply

      The pitch is 6.9:12 and the slope is 30 degrees

  4. Charles criscione at - Reply

    What is the snow load. I want to build one in upstate New York. How hard would it be to expand this to a 16×24 pavilion?

    • Jack at - Reply

      I don’t know your local codes, so I cannot advice you in that direction. You can easily modify these plans to 16×24.

  5. Steven at - Reply

    Is there a way to not have the post in the middle of the front and back?

    • Ovidiu at - Reply

      No, they are needed for this project.

  6. Steven at - Reply

    Is there a way to not have the center post in the front and back? Can the Beam be upsized?

    • Ovidiu at - Reply

      They are compulsory for this design.

  7. joe at - Reply

    How did you miter the 6×6’s

    • Ovidiu at - Reply

      Are you referring to the cuts for the diagonal braces?

  8. joe at - Reply

    That is correct. I’ve built the structure excluding these braces. Doing it by hand is difficult :).

  9. Joseph at - Reply

    Yes sir.

  10. joe at - Reply

    That is correct. The diagonal braces. does this also prevent it from wobbling? My structure seems to wobble without them (just haven’t gotten to that part).

    • Ovidiu at - Reply

      You need to add them, they stiffen up the structure.

  11. Radames Aponte Hernandez at - Reply

    Hi, it is a great project and easy to follow, but there is something that I cannot understand. Why if the project requires 6×6 lumber and the side top rails end beams you cut at 2 3/4 deep cuts and then the front and back top tracks end measurements are 5 1/2 and 2 3/4. The sum of 2 3/4 +2 3/4= 5 1/2. I believe 1/2 is going to be extra. Also, the vertical supports to the top rails cuts won’t fit unless you cut 6″ instead 5 1/2 as shown in the plan. Please correct me if I’m wrong. I might have missed something!
    v/r Radames

  12. selby jones at - Reply

    Was curious about the roof for this project and the necessity for the front and back posts. Do i have to use the front and back posts Or can I implement the brackets and trusses like in your 16×24 backyard pavilion plans by adding a middle beam going across and eliminate the front and back posts?

    thank you!

    • Ovidiu at - Reply

      Yes, you can use the techniques shown in the 16×24 pavilion tutorial and remove the middle posts from front and back. But the problem is if you remove them from the sides, there are no middle posts so you can install the middle plate. So you need to have 3 posts on the sides regardless.

  13. Rich at - Reply

    Thank you for 16×16 plans. my wife and i are taking on this project and we are first time DIY’S. under the material list it references beam to post connectors and strong tie T to be used during this project. the directions aren’t explicit as to when and where to use them but am i to assume that we will use post and beam connectors on every post and beam connection/ what about the strong tie T?

    thanks in advance

    • Ovidiu at - Reply

      The T tie is to connect the beam to the ridge beam supports. Make the joint more sturdy.

  14. Richard at - Reply

    Thanks for the quick response. So will we use the notch (Timber Frame)method along with the post and beam (brackets and connectors) method?

  15. John at - Reply

    Is there a way to eliminate the center post on the open end of this structure? I am building this structure over an existing bar area and I do not want the post in the center. Can I do anything to upgrade the structure at the front in order to eliminate the post? Thank you.

error: Content is protected !!