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This step by step diy project is about 10×16 pergola plans. I have designed this rectangular pergola, after I got a request from a reader. This pergola features a minimalist but stylish design, so it can match the look of any property. Take a look over the rest of my woodworking plans, if you want to get more building inspiration.
When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day. See all my Premium Plans HERE.
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Projects made from these plans
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10×16 Pergola – Free DIY Plans
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Cut & Shopping Lists
- A – 6 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 11′ long POSTS
- B – 4 piece of 2×8 lumber – 18′ long SUPPORT BEAMS
- C – 11 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 12′ long SHADE ELEMENTS
- D – 4 pieces of 1×2 lumber – 18′ long SLATS
- E – 4 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 45 3/4′ long, 4 pieces – 40 1/2″ long BRACES
- 6 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 12′
- 4 pieces of 2×8 lumber – 18′
- 11 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 12′
- 4 pieces of 1×2 lumber  – 18′
- 4 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 8′
- 1 5/8″ screws
- tube form
- rafter ties
- pergola hardware
- 8 pieces of 9″ carriage bolt
- 5 1/2″ screws
- wood filler , wood glue, stain/paint
- 6×6 post anchor 6 pieces
- post to beam connector 12 pieces
Tools
 Hammer, Tape measure, Framing square, Level
 Miter saw, Drill machinery, Screwdriver, Sander
 Safety Gloves, Safety Glasses
Time
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It’s that simple to build your 12×16 storage shed!
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How to build a 10×16 pergola plans
The first step of the pergola project is to layout the posts. Use batter boards and string to layout the location of the posts. Apply the 3-4-5 rule to every corner and then measure the diagonals to make sure they are perfectly equal. You need to make adjustments until you get the desired result.
Dig the holes 3′ deep (or under the front line) and about 12-16″ in diameter. Compact a layer of gravel to the bottom of the holes and then fit the tube forms. Fit the posts, align them and plumb them with a spirit level. Fill the forms with concrete, while the posts are locked into place with temporarily braces. If you use anchors, you need to align and set them into concrete. Fit the posts after the concrete dries, using lag screw.
Smart tip: Read the local building codes, so you dig the holes at the appropriate depth.
Use 2×8 lumber for the support beams. Make decorative cuts to both ends of the beams. You can use a large circular item so you can draw the curved lines. Get the job done with a jigsaw and then smooth the edges for a neat result.
Fit the support beams to the top of the posts. Use a spirit level to plumb the support beams and then clamp the beams into place tightly. Drill pilot holes through the beams and through the posts. Insert the 9″ carriage bolts and then tighten the nuts.
Use 2×6 lumber for the shade elements. Mark the cut lines and then get the job done with a saw. In addition, you need to make a few 2″ deep notches, so you can fit the shade elements to the support beams. Mark the cut lines on the beams and then use a circular saw to make parallel cuts. Use a chisel to remove the excess and then smooth the recess with sandpaper.
Fit the shade elements to the support beams. Place the shade elements equally spaced and then lock them into place with rafter ties. Alternatively, you could drill pilot holes through the shade elements (above the notches) and insert 5 1/2″ screws so you can lock them into place tightly.
Use 6×6 lumber for the braces. As you can easily see in the diagram, you need to cut out a decorative curve inside the braces, so you get a professional result.
Fit the braces to the pergola and make sure the corners are square. Drill pilot holes and insert 5 1/2″ screws to lock them into place tightly.
Fit the 1×2 slats to the top of the pergola. Place these slats equally spaced for a professional result. Center the slats to the rafters and then drill pilot holes, before inserting the 1 5/8″ screws.
Last but not least, you need to take care of the finishing touches. Therefore, fill the holes with wood putty and then smooth the surface with 120-220 grit sandpaper. You can also fit braces, if you live in a windy area. Apply a few coats of paint or stain over the components, to enhance the look of the pergola and to protect the components from decay.
This rectangular pergola will add value and an exquisite look to your property with a small investment.
This pergola provides plenty of space for setting several chairs, an outdoor sofa and an outdoor table. You can even cover the pergola of you want to obtain even more shade, especially during the hot summer days. Check out the rest of my pergola plans, as I have many designed and sizes you can choose from.
If you want to get PREMIUM PLANS for this project (different design and re-engineered structure), in a PDF format, please press GET PDF PLANS button bellow. Thank you for the support.
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This woodworking project was about 10×16 pergola plans free. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.
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15 comments
I don’t see how to download he plans for the 10×16 pergola
Please read the FAQs: http://myoutdoorplans.com/faq/
really looking forward to making this for my wife this summer. Have you ever added some type of roof to one? even just something simple with a slight angle. the reason i’m asking is that I could then grill rain or shine, or snow!! thank you so much for the plans!!!
I don’t have plans for that yet.
Thank you so much for posting these designs, the 10×16 is exactly the one I needed. Will be building this in a few weeks! Was thinking of adding either extra shade elements or an additional row of of them. Spoke with the city building people and seems like a proper roof over will be a headache, so I’ll likely look into some type of canvas tarp style rain shade to hang beneath the rafters.
You can add more 1x2s to the top of the pergola, that will create an extra layer of shade to the pergola. The tarp is also a great idea. Let me know how the project goes.
Do you think this would be strong and sturdy enough to double as a swing set? I am thinking of shortening it by a bit to 8×16 to save a little and then adding some swings for the kids while the kiwi vines grow on top.
For kids, yes. Fit a 6×6 beam between the double rafters and lock it into place with 9″ carriage bolts. That should be a good support for the hangers.
Can I use 4x6x12 instead of 6x6x12 for my 10×16 pergola? Can’t seem to find other ones around here
No, because 4 pieces of 2x6s make 6″ thickness, while 6×6 is 5 1/2″
I am looking at a 10 by 16 pergola. in my back yard.can I hang a hammock from it for my self.??
Is it possible to build a 10 x 16 pergola with only 4 corner posts?
Yes, but with much larger beams.
Hi OVIDIU! In one of the earlier comments you stated that it is possible to build a 16 x 10 pergola with out center posts using larger beams. Do you have plans for that? If you do please send me a link to where they are on your website. Love your website by the way!
I have plans for that in the Shop. See in the Menu. Cheers.