This step by step diy woodworking project is about a 16×20 wooden gazebo with lean to roof plans. This is a nice shelter with a lean to roof that you can build in just a few days and create some covered area in your very own backyard. This pavilion is sturdy and it features a modern design that is actual and suitable for any property. Roof pitch is 4:12. Take a look over the rest of our woodworking plans, if you want to get more building inspiration. Check out the Shop, as well, for full list of Premium Plans.
When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day.
Projects made from these plans
16×20 Lean to Pavilion – Free DIY Plans
Building-a-16×20-lean-to-pavilion
Cut List
- A – 6 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 8′ long POSTS
- B – 2 piece of 6×8 lumber – 12 ft long, 2 pieces – 10 ft long TOP PLATES
- C – 3 pieces of 6×8 lumber – 16 ft TOP PLATES
- D – 12 pieces 6×6 lumber – 36″ long BRACES
- E – 3 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 23 5/8″ long, 3 pieces – 52 3/4″ long RIDGE BEAM SUPPORTS
- E – 4 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 12 ft long RIDGE BEAMS
Tools
Hammer, Tape measure, Framing square, Level
Miter saw, Drill machinery, Screwdriver, Sander
Time
One week
Related
- PART 1: 16×20 Lean to Pavilion Plans
- PART 2: 16×20 Lean to Pavilion Roof Plans
16×20 Lean to Gazebo – Free DIY Plans
Laying-out-the-posts
First, layout the posts for the 16×20 pavilion. Use batter boards and string to determine the location of the posts. Apply the 3-4-5 rule to every corner of the pavilion, so you make sure they are right angled. Make sure the diagonals are equal.
Determining the location for the pavilion is essential, as you have to comply with the local building codes. Make sure the surface is level and remove the vegetation layer.
Anchoring the post into concrete
Dig 3 ft holes into the ground, making sure they have about 16″ in diameter. Fit the tubes into the ground and plumb them with a spirit level. Install the anchors in concrete and align them with attention. Let the concrete dry out for several days. Read the local codes for more details on how to secure the posts.
Use lag screws to secure the posts to the anchors. Make sure the top of the posts are horizontal one to another. Use braces to lock the posts into place. Use a laser to mark the level to the top of the posts and use a circular saw, if you need to make cuts.
Building the frame of the pavilion
Beams
Use 6×8 lumber for the top rails. Mark the cut lines on the beams and then make the cut outs with a circular saw and a chisel. Set the circular saw at 3 5/8″ and then make parallel cuts inside the marked areas. Clean the recess with a chisel and sandpaper.
Fitting-the-side-top-plates
Fit the top rails to the sides of the pavilion. Notice the 24″ overhangs to the front of the pavilion. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert 10″ screws to lock them to the posts. Use 2 screws for each joint. Make sure the corners are square and plumb the posts vertically.
Fitting-the-crossbeams
Fit the cross plates to the pavilion. Align the edges flush and drill pilot holes. Insert the 10″ screws to lock the cross plates into place tightly.
Fitting-the-braces-to-the-frame
Build the braces for the front and back of the pavilion from 6×6 lumber. Use a miter saw to make 45 degree cuts to both ends of the braces. Fit the braces to the posts, after you plumb them vertically. Drill pilot holes and insert 5 1/2″ screws to secure the braces into place tightly.
Framing the roof structure
Fitting-the-middle-supports
Fitting-the-top-ridge-beam-supports
Fit the 6×6 supports to the back of the pavilion. Plumb the supports vertically and lock them to the frame of the structure with L brackets and 2 1/2″ structural screws.
Center the 6×6 supports to the top of pavilion. Plumb the supports with a spirit level. Use post to beam connectors to secure the supports to the top plates. Use 2 1/2″ structural screws to lock the connectors into place.
Fitting-the-top-ridge-beams
Fit the 6×6 ridge beams to the top of the supports. Notice the 24″ overhangs on both sides of the pavilion. Use post to beam connectors and 2 1/2″ screws to secure the beams to the supports.
Ridge-beam-braces
Fit the 6×6 lumber for the top ridge beam braces, Make 45 degree cuts to both ends of the braces and secure them to the frame of the pavilion, using 5 1/2″ screws. Drill pilot holes before inserting the screws, to prevent the wood from splitting.
Middle-ridge-beam-braces
Fit the braces to the middle ridge beam, as shown in the diagram. Drill pilot holes and insert 5 1/2″ screws to lock them into place. Plumb the supports with a spirit, before inserting the screws.
16×20-Lean-to-Pavilion—side-view
Check out PART 2 of the project to learn how to build the lean to roof for this compact slanted gazebo. The roof has a 3:12 pitch. You can place this shelter close to the property line or to an already existing building.
16×20-Lean-to-Pavilion-Plans
Fill the holes with wood putty and let them dry out for a few hours. Smooth the surface with 100-220 grit sandpaper and remove the residues with a damp cloth. This makes for a great addition to your property, if you like spending time outside in the nature.
Top Tip: Apply a few coats of paint or stain to the components, to enhance the look of the project. Check out the Shop, as well, for full list of Premium Plans.
If you want to get PREMIUM PLANS for this project, in a PDF format, please press GET PDF PLANS button bellow. Thank you for the support.
This woodworking project was about 16×20 pavilion with lean to roof plans free. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.
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4 comments
Just noticed that the cut list for this project shows 2ea 6x8x12 for the roof beams but the instructions say 6x6x12. Also there should be 4 on the cut list for both of the beams at the top. I am really considering doing this project and adding some other stuff to it. I would switch it out with the 6×6 as I think they would be strong enough but not sure how it would affect the notching of the 2×6’s. Also wondering if this is more clear with the purchase planes.
Top plates are 6×8. Ridge beams are 6×6 lumber. All premium plans are more detailed. This one comes with cut layout diagrams (showing how to cut the components for least waste)
Do the premium plans work for the counties needs? I’m in San Bernardino county and am fully aware you don’t know the county permit reqs but have others used these plans to get the counties approval?
Thnx
What’s the wind rating on this design?