This step by step diy woodworking project is about a 8×10 wooden pavilion with lean to roof plans. I designed this small slanted pavilion with a 8×10 base, so you can cover your grill / bbq / pizza oven. This pavilion has a 6×6 structure and a lean to roof with a 3:12 pitch. This pavilion makes for a perfect bbq cover or a small area for taking dinner. Take a look over the rest of my woodworking plans, if you want to get more building inspiration. Check out the Shop, as well, for full list of Premium Plans.
When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day. See all my Premium Plans HERE.
Projects made from these plans
8×10 Lean to Pavilion – Free DIY Plans
Cut + Materials Lists
- A – 4 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 7′ long POSTS
- B – 1 piece of 6×6 lumber – 10′ long, 1 piece – 12′ long TOP PLATES
- C – 2 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 8′ long TOP PLATES
- D – 8 pieces 6×6 lumber – 32″ long BRACES
- E – 2 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 17 1/4″ long, 1 piece – 12′ long RIDGE BEAM SUPPORTS
- F – 10 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 10′ long RAFTERS
- G – 2 pieces of 1/2″ plywood – 4’x8′ long, 2 pieces – 4’x4′ long, 1 piece – 24″x96″ long, 1 piece – 24″x48″ long ROOF
- H – 2 pieces of 1×8 lumber – 12 ft, 2 pieces – 121 1/2″ long TRIMS
- I – 140 sq ft of asphalt shingles ROOFING
- 4 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 8 ft
- 3 piece of 6×6 lumber – 10 ft
- 2 pieces of 6×6 lumber – 12 ft
- 10 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 10 ft
- 4 pieces of 1×8 lumber – 12 ft
- 4 pieces of 1/2″ plywood – 4’x8′
- 140 sq ft of asphalt shingles
- 32 pieces of 5 1/2″ screws, 16 pieces of 6″ screws
- 500 pieces of 1 5/8″ screws
- 2″ nails
- wood glue, stain/paint
- post hole digger
- 4 pieces of post anchors
- 4 pieces of beam to post connectors
- 1 box of 1 1/2″ structural screws for connectors
- 1 box of 2 1/2″ structural screws
- 48 ft of drip edges
Hammer, Tape measure, Framing square, Level
Miter saw, Drill machinery, Screwdriver, Sander
Step 1: Laying out the posts
First, layout the posts for the 8×10 lean to pavilion. Use batter boards and string to determine the location of the posts. Apply the 3-4-5 rule to every corner of the pavilion, so you make sure they are right angled. Make sure the diagonals are equal. We are going to use 6×6 posts for this pavilion project.
Determining the location for the pavilion is essential, as you have to comply with the local building codes. Make sure the surface is level and remove the vegetation layer. Before pouring the concrete you need to make sure the top of the posts are horizontal one to another. Use a laser to mark the level to the top of the posts and use a circular saw, if you need to make cuts.
Dig 3 ft holes into the ground, making sure they have about 16″ in diameter. Fit the tubes then the posts into the ground and plumb them with a spirit level. Read the local codes for more details on how to secure the posts. Install the anchors, fill the tubes with concrete and let it dry out for a few days.
Fit the posts to the anchors and plumb them with a spirit level. Use temporarily braces to make sure the posts are locked into placed while filling the holes with concrete. Use lag screws to secure the posts to the anchors. Use a level to make sure the top of the posts are horizontal one to another and use a circular saw to make adjustments, if necessary.
Step 2: Building the frame of the pavilion
Continue the project by using 6×6 lumber for the top rails. Mark the cut lines on the beams and then make the cut outs with a circular saw and a chisel. Smooth the surface with sandpaper. Set the circular saw at 2 3/4″ and then make parallel cuts inside the marked areas. Clean the recess with a chisel and sandpaper. You can also get the job done with a jigsaw, but it will take longer and it’s not as accurate.
Also, fit the top rails to the sides of the pavilion. Notice the 12″ overhangs to the sides of the pavilion. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert 6″ screws to lock them to the posts. Use 2 screws for each joint. Make sure the corners are square and plumb the posts vertically, before attaching the support beams (don’t remove the temporarily braces, until you assemble the frame of the pavilion).
Similarly, fit the cross plates to the 8×10 lean to pavilion. Align the edges flush and drill pilot holes. Insert the 6″ screws to lock the cross plates into place tightly. Check if the corners are square after installing the plates.
Step 3: Fitting the braces
Next, build the braces for the frame of the pavilion from 6×6 lumber. Use a miter saw to make 45 degree cuts to both ends of the braces. Fit the braces to the posts, after you plumb them vertically. Drill pilot holes and insert 5 1/2″ screws to secure the braces into place tightly.
Also, you need to make sure the corners are square before attaching the diagonal braces. Insert at least 2 screws for each joint.
Step 4: Building the roof
Fit the 6×6 supports to the ridge beam of the pavilion. Use 2 L shaped connectors to secure the side supports. Insert 2 1/2″ structural screws to lock the connectors into place. Plumb the supports with a spirit level before securing them into place tightly.
Fit the 6×6 ridge beams to the top of the supports, making sure the overhangs are equal on both sides. Use post to beam connectors and 2 1/2″ structural screws to secure the beams into place. Use a spirit level to check if the beams are perfectly horizontal.
Use 2×6 lumber for the rafters. Mark the cut lines on the beams and then get the job done with a circular saw. Smooth the edges with sandpaper before setting the rafters to the frame of the pavilion.
Lay the rafters to the top of the 8×10 shelter and secure them to the beams with rafter ties and 1 1/2″ structural screws. Place the rafters every 16″ on center and align the edges flush.
I recommend you to use 1/2″ plywood or 3/4″ plywood for the roof decking. Cut the sheets as shown in the diagram and then lay them to the top of the roof structure, starting with the bottom left side. Leave no gaps between the sheets and insert 1 5/8″ screws, every 8″ along the rafters.
Step 5: Finishing touches
Continue the project by fitting the 1×8 trims to the front and back of the roof. Insert 2″ nails to lock the trims into place tightly.
Next, cut and fit the 1×8 trims to the sides of the pavilion.
Cover the roof of the pavilion with tar paper and then install the asphalt shingles. Use drip edges to make sure the roof is waterproof.
As you can see the total height for this pavilion is just 10 ft. In addition, you can see the overhangs add to the 8×10 base of the pavilion.
Fill the holes with wood putty and let them dry out for a few hours. Smooth the surface with 100-220 grit sandpaper and remove the residues with a damp cloth. This makes for an awesome grill gazebo that is friendly with your budget and very sturdy.
Top Tip: Apply a few coats of paint or stain to the components, to enhance the look of the project. Check out the Shop, as well, for full list of Premium Plans.
This woodworking project was about 8×10 pavilion with lean to roof plans free. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.