This step by step diy woodworking project is about a 12×18 gable pavilion plans. This is a large pavilion built on a sturdy 6×6 and 6×8, with 6 posts and a 12 ft x 18 ft base, outside post to outside post. The roof for this pavilion has a pitch of 6:12 and features large opening on all sides. Make sure you take a look over the local building codes, so you comply with the regulations. Take a look over the rest of our woodworking plans, if you want to get more building inspiration. Premium Plans for this project available Here. Check out the Shop, as well, for full list of Premium Plans.
When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day.
Projects made from these plans
12×18 Gable Gazebo Plans – PDF Download
Cut and Shopping Lists
Hammer, Tape measure, Framing square, Level
Miter saw, Drill machinery, Screwdriver, Sander
Safety Gloves, Safety Glasses, Post hole digger
- PART 1: 12×18 Pavilion Plans
- PART 2: 12×18 Pavilion Roof Plans
How to build a 12×18 shelter
First, layout the posts for the large pavilion. Use batter boards and string to determine the location of the posts. Apply the 3-4-5 rule to every corner of the pavilion, so you make sure they are right angled. Make sure the diagonals are equal. Determining the location for the pavilion is essential, as you have to comply with the local building codes. Make sure the surface is level and remove the vegetation layer.
Dig 3 ft holes into the ground, making sure they have about 14″ in diameter. Fit the tubes then fill them with concrete and set the anchors. Align the anchors one to another and let the concrete dry out for several days. Next, attach the 6×6 posts to the anchors and plumb them with a spirit level. Use temporarily braces to lock the posts into place till you assemble the whole frame of the pavilion.
Read the local codes for more details on how to secure the posts. Use lag screws to secure the posts to the anchors. Before pouring the concrete you need to make sure the top of the posts are horizontal one to another. Use a laser to mark the level to the top of the posts and use a circular saw, if you need to make cuts.
Building the frame of the pavilion
Next, we will be building the top plates for the large gable pavilion. Therefore, this pavilion requires at least 6x8s (read the codes and use 6×10 if required due to snow load), due to the large spans on the front and back.
As you can see in the diagram, you need to make 3 5/8″ notches to the beams, so you can lock them together tightly. Use a circular saw to make parallel cuts inside the marked areas and remove the excess with a chisel. Smooth the recesses with sandpaper.
Fit the top rails to the sides of the pavilion. Notice the 12″ overhangs to the front and back of the pavilion. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert 8″ screws to lock them to the posts. Use 2 screws for each joint. Make sure the corners are square and plumb the posts vertically.
Next, fit the cross plates to the pavilion. Align the edges flush and drill pilot holes. Insert the 8″ screws to lock the cross plates into place tightly.
Fitting the braces
Build the braces for the front and back of the pavilion from 6×6 lumber. Use a miter saw to make 45 degree cuts to both ends of the braces. Fit the braces to the posts, after you plumb them vertically. Drill pilot holes and insert 5 1/2″ screws to secure the braces into place tightly. Insert at least 2 screws for each joint.
Center the 6×6 supports to the top of pavilion. Plumb the supports with a spirit level. Use 6×6 post to beam connectors to secure the supports to the frame of the pavilion. Insert 2 1/2″ structural screws to lock the supports.
Fit the 6×6 beam to the top of the supports (depending on your local codes, you might be required to use 6×8 lumber for the ridge beams, as well – in that case, make the supports 2″ shorter). Notice the 12″ overhangs to the front and back of the pavilion.
Use post to beam connectors with 2 1/2″ structural screws to lock everything together tightly. Insert structural screws through the connector. Make sure the corners are square and align the edges flush.
Use 6×6 lumber for the braces. Make 45 degree cuts at both ends of the braces. Secure the braces into place with 5 1/2″ screws. Drill pilot holes before inserting the screws. Use at least 2 screws for each joint. These braces will really reinforce the structure and add extra-support to the ridge beams.
Check out PART 2 of the project to learn how to build the gable roof. You can see in this image the overall dimensions for the large gable pavilion. This is really useful because it can shelter a picnic table or even an outdoor entertainment area. Moreover, this makes for a nice double carport.
Fill the holes with wood putty and let them dry out for a few hours. Smooth the surface with 100-220 grit sandpaper and remove the residues with a damp cloth.
Top Tip: Apply a few coats of paint or stain to the components, to enhance the look of the project. Check out the Shop, as well, for full list of Premium Plans. If you want to get this project will full CUT and SHOPPING lists and 1 single PDF file, please check the GET PDF PLANS button bellow!
This woodworking project was about 12×18 gable pavilion plans free. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.
I believe you mentioned all these measurements are in imperial correct? I really like this website and am willing to purchase your plans going forward to help your site, but i’m in the USA and was wondering about the measurements and converting them if needed. Please advise
Imperial is the US system, with inches and feet. Metric is the European system with cm and meters. I use the US system.