This step by step diy project is about cold frame lids plans. This is PART 2 of the cold frame project, where I show you how to build the lids and how to install them into place tightly. You can even install automatic vent openers so you can control the temperature inside the cold frame. Alternatively, you can secure the lids to the back support with string. You can even get the job done with hand tools! Take a look over the rest of my woodworking plans, if you want to get more building inspiration.
When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day. See all my Premium Plans HERE.
Projects made from these plans
Building the Lids for the Cold Frame
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- E – 1 piece of 2×4 lumber – 96″ long, 1 piece of 2×4 lumber – 96″ long LID SUPPORTS
- G – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 47″ long SUPPORTS
- H – 2 pieces of 2×2 lumber – 32″ long, 2 pieces – 45 1/2″ long 3xLID
- I – 2 pieces of 1×2 lumber – 32″ long, 2 pieces – 45 1/2″ long 3xLID TRIMS
- J – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 72″ long, 2 pieces – 96″ long, 1 piece of 1×4 lumber – 96″ long FRAME
- 5 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 8′
- 6 pieces of 2×2 lumber – 8′
- 6 pieces of 1×2 lumber – 8′
- 2 1/2″ screws, 1 5/8″ screws, 1 1/4″ screws
- greenhouse plastic
- automatic vent opener
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- PART 1: Cold frame greenhouse plans
- PART 2: Cold frame lids plans
- Greenhouse shed plans
- Raised garden bed plans
How to build lids for the cold frame
Continue the garden project by making the supports for the lids. Make the bevel angle cuts to both ends of the supports from 2×4 lumber.
Next, attach the 2×4 supports to the back of the cold frame. Use a spirit level to plumb the supports, drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws to lock them into place tightly. Check if the corners are square and align the edges flush for a professional result.
Fit the supports to the cold frame. Take accurate measurements, drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws to secure them into place tightly.
Fit a 2×4 and a 1×4 beam to the back of the cold frame. Drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws to secure the beams into place tightly.
Build the lid frame from 2×2 lumber. Cut the components at the right dimensions and the lock them together tightly with 2 1/2″ screws. Drill pilot holes before inserting the screws, to prevent the wood from splitting. Align the edges flush and make sure the corners are square.
Fit the greenhouse plastic to the lids and then lock them into place tightly with 1×2 trims. Align the edges flush, drill pilot holes and insert 1 5/8″ screws to lock the trims into place tightly.
Fit the lids to the top of the cold frame. Install the hinges to secure the lids to the back support.
You can open and close the lids easily and lock them into place with string, to the back of the cold frame.
Last but not least, you need to take care of the finishing touches. Fill the holes with wood putty and then smooth the surface with 120-220 grit sandpaper. Apply a few coats of paint over the components to protect them from decay. Make sure the paint is food safe or use cedar for the cold frame construction. In addition, avoid to use pressure treated lumber.
This woodworking project was about cold frame greenhouse lid plans. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.