This step by step diy woodworking project is about a outhouse plans. I have designed building plans for this lean to outhouse so that anyone can get the job done with no prior experience in woodworking. This project has three parts, so make sure you check out the following articles to learn more on how to build an outhouse roof. Take a look over the rest of our woodworking plans, if you want to get more building inspiration.
When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day.
Projects made from these plans
It’s that simple to build an outhouse!
- A – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 72″ long, 4 pieces – 45″ long, 2 pieces – 43″ long, 13 pieces – 48″ long, 2 pieces – 22 1/2″ long FLOOR
- B – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 48″ long, 4 pieces – 67 1/8″ long 2xSIDE WALL
- C – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 41″ long, 3 pieces – 67 1/8″ long BACK WALL
- D – 4 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 11″ long, 4 pieces – 67 1/8″ long, 2 pieces – 48″ long, 5 pieces – 9 3/8″ long FRONT WALL
- I – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 48″ long, 2 pieces – 18 1/4″ long, 2 pieces – 23 3/4″ long, 2 pieces – 11″ long, 2 pieces – 14″ long SEAT
- F – 12 pieces of 1×4 lumber – 16 1/2″ long, 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood- 29 1/2″x48″ long SEAT
Building an outhouse plans
The first step of the project is to build the floor frame for the outhouse. As you can notice in the diagram, the front platform is fairly large, but you can adjust it if you want to have the exact same size with the structure. Drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws to secure the joists together tightly. Make sure the corners are right-angled and add waterproof glue to the joints.
Attach the 2×4 decking boards to the frame. Align the edges and make sure you place the slats equally-spaced, for a professional result. Drill pilot holes and use 2 1/2″ screws to lock the boards to the frame. Countersink the head of the screws, so they are at the same surface with the boards.
Build the sides walls for the outhouse from 2×4 lumber. Drill pilot holes through the bottom and top plates and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the studs. Align the edges with attention and make sure the corners are square.
Fit the side walls to the floor of the outhouse. Use a spirit level to plumb the walls and make sure the edges are flush. Drill pilot holes through the bottom plates and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the frame.
Build the back wall from 2×4 lumber. Drill pilot through the plates and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the studs.
Fit the back wall to the floor of the wooden outhouse. Align the edges with attention and make sure the corners are right-angled. Drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the floor and into the adjacent walls.
Build the front walls from 2×4 lumber, as well.
Fit the walls to the front of the outhouse, as shown in the diagram. Lock the frames to the floor and to the adjacent walls, making sure the corners are square.
Build the top front frame from 2×4 lumber. Drill pilot holes through the top and bottom plates and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the studs. Make sure the corners are square and align the edges with attention.
Fit this frame to the front wall. Align the edges and insert 2 1/2″ screws through the bottom plate, after drilling pilot holes. Make sure the corners are square and leave no gaps between the components.
Next, you need to start assembling the seat for the outhouse. Therefore, fit 2×4 supports to the structure, as shown in the image.
Fit 1×4 slats to the supports, making sure you leave no gaps between them. Use 1 1/4″ screws to lock the slats to the supports.
Fit the 2×4 supports to the back of the outhouse. Drill pocket holes at both ends and insert 2 1/2″ screws to assemble everything with attention. Next, attach the supports for the seat top. Drill pocket holes at both ends and insert 2 1/2″ screws to lock them into place tightly.
Fit 2×4 supports to the side walls of the outhouse, as well. Drill pocket holes at both ends and secure them to the studs with 2 1/2″ screws. Make sure the corners are square and leave no gaps between the components.
Build the top from 3/4″ plywood. As you can see in the image, you need to make a few notches to the plywood sheet, so it can fit around the studs. In addition, cut out the hole using a jigsaw. Last but not least, you need to cut the sheet into three pieces, otherwise you would have a hard time fitting it into place.
Fit the 3 panels to the top of the supports, making sure everything is aligned properly. Leave no gaps between the components and lock them into place with 2″ brad nails.
Take a look over PART 2 and PART 3 of the project to learn how to frame the roof and the door for the outhouse.
Fill the holes with wood putty and let them dry out for a few hours. Smooth the surface with 100-220 grit sandpaper and remove the residues with a damp cloth.
Top Tip: Apply a few coats of paint or stain to the base components, to enhance the look of the project. Design is a very subjective area, so you can make modifications to the project so it suit your needs. Check out the rest of the project, to learn how to build a complete outhouse.
This woodworking project was about outhouse plans free. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.