This step by step woodworking project is about large shed roof plans. After assembling the frame of the shed, you should continue the woodworking project by installing the trusses and fitting the roofing sheets. From our experience, we recommend you to build the rafters and the trusses on the ground and lift them to the top plates. In this manner you save time and increase the chances of getting a professional result.
Building the roof is maybe the most challenging part of this project, as you need to be very precise. On addition, all the trusses should have the exact same size and shape, otherwise the roof of the large shed won’t have a neat appearance. If you want to install front and back overhangs or you just don’t want to build a gable roof, you should read the rest of our shed plans and choose the one that fit you needs perfectly.
- A – 9 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 145 1/4” long, cut at 60º at both ends BOTTOM RAFTERS
- B – 18 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 92” long, both ends cut at 30º RAFTERS
- C - 18 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 20 3/4”, 9 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 38 1/2” long INTERMEDIATE RAFTERS
- D - 8 sheets of 3/4” togue and groove plywood ROOFING SHEETS
- E - 300 sq ft of roofing felt TAR PAPER
- F - 300 sq ft of asphalt shingles SHINGLES
- G – 4 pieces of 1×4 lumber – 92” long, 2 pieces of 1×4 lumber – 195” long TRIMS
Hammer, Tape measure, Framing square
Miter saw, Drill machinery, Screwdriver, Sander
Safety Gloves, Safety Glasses
Building a large shed
Building a roof for a large shed is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, provided you use the right plans and techniques. As opposed to other projects, when building the trusses, you should make sure all the components are perfectly equal.
Top Tip: Read carefully the other parts of this project, to learn how to build a large shed, from the very beginning up to installing the shingles and the door.
Large Shed Roof Plans
The first step of the project is to assess the frame of the shed. Therefore, check if the walls are plumb and make sure the top plates are perfectly level. This aspects are essential for the project, otherwise the rood won’t have a neat look.
Top Tip: On the other hand, the wooden structure should be rigid, otherwise it won’t be able to support your weight when installing the trusses to the frame.
After the preliminary steps, you need to build the trusses on a level surface. In order to get the job done like a pro, you should make all the trusses equal, otherwise the roof won’t have a symmetrical look. Use a good miter saw to make angle cuts, otherwise they might not fit together properly.
Drill pilot holes trough the rafters and drive in 3 1/2” into the rest of the components. Check if the angles are right every time you add a component.
As you can see in the image, you need to reinforce the joints with 3/4” plywood gussets. Drive in 1 1/4” galvanized screws to secure the gussets to the trusses. After building the trusses, we recommend you to fit them on the top plates and to align them. Drill pilot holes trough the bottom rafters and drive in 3 /2” screws into the plates.
Top Tip: Plumb the trusses with a spirit level and install the wooden blockings between the rafters.
The next step of the woodworking project is to attach the roofing sheets. In order to get a proper result, we recommend you to buy 3/4” tongue and groove plywood sheets. Lay the sheets on the rafters and secure them with 2” nails, every 6”.
Top Tip: Make sure the joints are over the rafters, otherwise the roof won’t be rigid and won’t be able to support any weight. Use galvanized screws/nails, otherwise they will easily rust. The sheets should overhang about 3/4”, for the trims.
Afterwards, install the roofing felt into place, starting from the bottom of the roof up to the top. As a general rule, the strips should overlap at least 2” and you should use staples to secure the paper to the roofing sheets. The side drip edges should be fitted over the tar paper. Oppositely, the front and the back drip edges should be placed over the roofing felt.
Cut a 14” strip of paper and cover the top ridge.
After fitting the tar paper, install the starter course for the asphalt shingles. The easiest way to get the job done is by reversing the shingle tabs with the cuts up and to lock them into place with roofing tacks. Make sure the tacks are not longer than the thickness of the plywood sheets.
Top Tip: The shingles should overhand 1/2” on both sides. Leave enough room at the bottom to cover the wooden trims.
Next, you should install the shingles, starting with the bottom left of the roof. First of all, read attentively the manufacturer’s instructions. One of the easiest patterns to follow is the stretcher bond.
Start the first course with a full tab, the second with 2 1/2 tabs, the third with 2 tabs, the forth with 1 1/2 tabs, the fifth with 1 tab, the sixth with half tab and the seventh with a 3 tabs. Secure the shingles with roofing tacks.
Last but not least, you need to cover the top ridge with shingles. Cut the 3 tab shingles into three equal pieces. Place them over the ridge and drive tacks on both sides of the roof.
Top Tip: As the last row of ridge caps have the tacks exposed to water, you need to cover them with roofing tar, to prevent them from rusting. Seal any gaps with silicone and check one last time if all the components are installed properly.
If you have installed the shingles properly, as well as the rest of the roof, your shed should be water-roof. Make sure you have covered all the surface of the roof with tar paper and shingles, if you want to avoid potential damages.
Top Tip: Fit the 1×4 trims to the ends of the rafters, on both sides of the shed. Check out the rest of the project, to see all about building a door and fitting the rest of the trims.
This woodworking project was about large shed roof plans. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.