12×16 Gambrel Shed Roof Plans

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This step by step diy woodworking project is about 12×16 barn shed roof plans. The project features instructions for building a gambrel roof for a 12×16 barn shed. This barn comes with supports for a basic loft, so all you are left to do is attach the loft floor. Check out PART 3 of the article to see how to frame the double shed doors. See the rest of plans for more outdoor projects.

When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Read the local building codes before starting the project, as you might need a building permit. In addition, level the area and remove the vegetation layer.

 

 

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12×16 Gambrel Shed Roof Plans

Building a 12x16 barn with loft

Building a 12×16 barn with loft

 

  • F – 36 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 55″ long TRUSSES
  • G – 7 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 144″ long LOFT SUPPORTS
  • H – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 49 1/4″ long, 2 pieces – 59″ long, 1 piece – 68 1/4″ long GAMBREL ENDS SUPPORTS
  • I – 4 pieces of T1-11 – 48″x62″ long, 2 pieces – 48″x72″ long SIDING
  • J – 8 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 55″ long, 24 pieces – 7″ long 2xOVERHANGS
  • K – 16 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 48″x55″ long, 8 pieces – 11″x55″ long ROOF
  • L – 350 sq ft of tar paper, 350 sq ft of asphalt shingles ROOFING

  • 40 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 12′
  • 16 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 4’x8′
  • 6 pieces of T1-11 siding – 4’x8′
  • 350 sq ft of tar paper, 350 sq ft of asphalt shingles
  • 500 pieces of 3″ screws
  • 500 pieces of 2 1/2″ screws
  • 500 pieces of 1 5/8″ screws/brad nails

 One day

 

 

Building a gambrel roof

Building the rafters

Building the rafters

The first step of the project is to build the rafters for the barn shed. Cut both ends of the rafters at 67.5 degrees. Take accurate measurements and get the job done with a miter saw.

Attaching the gussets

Attaching the gussets

Build the gussets for the trusses from 3/4″ plywood. Mark the cut lines on the plywood and get the job done with a circular saw. Attach the gussets to the rafters and lock them into place with 1 5/8″ screws.

Fitting the trusses

Fitting the trusses

Fit the trusses to the top of the barn shed, making sure they are placed equally-spaced. Plumb the trusses with a spirit level, drill pilot holes and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the plates.

Loft supports

Loft supports

Build the loft supports from 2×4 lumber. Cut both ends of the beams at 67.5 degrees.

Fitting the loft supports

Fitting the loft supports

Fit the supports to the top plates and secure them to the trusses, as shown in the diagram. Drill pilot holes at both ends of the supports and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the trusses.

Gambrel ends esupports

Gambrel ends supports

Build the gambrel ends support from 2×4 lumber. Make the angle cuts to the top of the supports, as shown in the plans.

Fitting the gamrel end supports

Fitting the gamrel end supports

Fit the supports to the front and back faces of the shed, as shown in the plans. Toe-nail the supports to the frame of the shed.

Attaching the gambrel ends

Attaching the gambrel ends

Build the gambrel ends from T1-11 siding. Cut the sheets at the right shape and dimensions. Attach the sheets to the frame and lock them into place with 1 5/8″ nails, every 8″ along the framing.

Assembling the overhangs

Assembling the overhangs

Build the overhangs for the barn shed. Adjust the width of the overhangs to suit your needs. Drill pilot holes through the rafters and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the blocking.

Fitting the overhangs

Fitting the overhangs

Fit the overhangs to the front and to the back of the shed. Align the edges with attention, drill pilot holes and insert 3″ screws into the rafters.

Attaching the roofing sheets

Attaching the roofing sheets

Attach 3/4″ plywood sheets to the rafters, using the pattern shown in the diagram. Drill pilot holes and insert 1 5/8″ screws, every 8″ along the rafters. Leave no gaps between the tongue and groove sheets.

Fitting the roofing

Fitting the roofing

Cover the roof of the shed with roofing felt, making sure the strips overlap at least 2″. Secure the tar paper to the plywood sheets with roofing staples. In addition, cut a 12″ piece for the top ridge. Fit the side drip edges over the roofing felt, while the bottom drip edges should be fit under.

Barn shed - 12x16

Barn shed – 12×16

Make sure you take a look over the PART 3 of the project, to learn how to build the double doors.

12x16 Barn Shed Plans

12×16 Barn Shed Plans

Fill the holes with wood putty and let them dry out for a few hours. Smooth the surface with 100-200 grit sandpaper and remove the residues with a damp cloth.

Top Tip: Check out the rest of the project, to learn how to frame of the shed, as well as the double doors.

 

 

This woodworking project was about 12×16 gambrel shed roof plans. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.

 

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8 Comments »

  1. Joe Manon at - Reply

    Great site!!

    • Julian at -

      Thank you for the appreciation. I’m looking forward to seeing some of your projects!

  2. Richard Mitchell at - Reply

    These plans served as an excellent starting point for a 12×16 barn I’m building. I’ve made several modifications:

    1) Loft supports are made from 2×6 lumber rather than 2×4
    2) A post and beam is being added 8 feet from one side (dividing the barn into a 4 foot “hallway” and an 8 foot pen for sheep. The main reason for adding the post and beam is to provide support under the 2×6 loft floor joists. With 2x4s 16″ o/c, a 12 foot span won’t support 30 lbs/square foot…in fact it will only support 30 psf to a maximum span of 6’10”. I wanted more support, so I switched to 2×6 hem-fir joists 16″ o/c with an 8 foot beam – to support up to 50 psf…ridiculous overkill perhaps, but it will support lots of hay in the loft
    3) I added a 5-foot wide door on one end with a small electric hoist to lift hay to the loft.
    4) I added a 3×3 window to one side
    5) I added a standard 30″ metal door to one end (opposite the barn doors
    6) Made the barn doors double doors, total of 6 feet wide
    7) The whole structure is anchored to a thickened wall monolithic pour slab with a 3″ curb on one end and a 5″ curb on the other (to give a sloped floor)
    8) All of the gambrel trusses are anchored with hurricane ties in addition to being toe-nailed
    9) I’m hoping to put on a metal roof – in the Northwest, we have lots of moss and a metal roof is far easier to clean

  3. Richard Mitchell at - Reply

    …adding to my comment above-

    The “8 foot beam” is supported by 2 4×6 posts and a single 4×4 post, with a 4×6 beam spanning about 11 feet – 5 1/2 feet between posts (the 4x6s on each end, the 4×4 in the middle).

    The floor is 4″ 3500 psi concrete with a thickened edge of about 8″ for 1 foot from all sides (the thickened part of the slab is 1 foot wide around the perimeter.

    There is a thickened area of the slab under the 4×6 post that stands in the floor area of the barn. The “curbs” (that rise above the slab” are concrete – all poured at the same time as the slab just as one would pour a curb – and are 6″ wide around the perimeter – the main “foundation” is therefore about 11 1/2″ from the top of the curb to the bottom of the foundation, and 6″ wide. Anchor bolts were cast into the curb so that the sill plate is anchored to the concrete with anchor bolts.

  4. Mike Renfroe at - Reply

    I would like to get a plan for a 12X20 Gambrel Shed Plans unit, with double door in front an two window on the side ( 20′ side) and roof plans.

    Thanks Mike…

    • Julian at -

      Hi there. I don’t create custom plans with specific sizes and features.

  5. Tim Akerley at - Reply

    Great site ! I am using 1/2 in. ply for roof and walls if I butt them together no drip edge. Any ideas ? T1-11 is $65.00 a sheet up north. Thanks Tim

    • Julian at -

      You still need to create some drip edges for the bottom edge of the roof, otherwise the water will go down the walls.

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