This step by step diy project is about 10×12 run in shed plans. I have designed this medium sized run in shed with a saltbox roof, so you can shelter a horse or other items. The shed has a super wide opening, for an easy access. Make sure you check the local codes and make adjustments to the plans, if required. Take a look over the rest of my woodworking plans, if you want to get more building inspiration.
When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look.
Projects made from these plans
10×12 Run in Shed Plans
- A – 2 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 127 1/2″ long, 2 pieces – 135 1/2″ long, 2 pieces – 96″ long, 3 pieces – 88″ long POSTS
- B – 2 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 113″ long, 2 pieces – 137″long SKIDS
- C – 12 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 54 3/4″ long, 4 pieces – 66 3/4″ long, 4 pieces – 23″ long SUPPORTS
- C – 2 pieces of 2×8 lumber – 144″ long, 1 piece of 2×6 lumber – 84″ long, 2 pieces of 2×2 lumber – 17″ long BEAMS
- 6 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 12′
- 5 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 8′
- 2 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 10′
- 5 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 8′
- 6 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 10′
- 2 pieces of 2×8 lumber – 12′
- 1 piece of 2×6 lumber – 8′
- 1 piece of 2×2 lumber – 4′
- 3 1/2″ lag screws
- 2 1/2″ screws, 3 1/2″ screws
- wood filler , wood glue, stain/paint
How to build a 10×12 run in shed
The first step of the project is to build the corner posts. As you can see in the diagram, you need to make a notch to the top of the 4×4 posts. Make parallel cuts to the top of the posts and then remove the excess with a chisel. You need to set the posts in concrete, therefore add 36″ to the posts.
The next step of the project is to layout the location of the posts. Use batter boards and string to mark the location for the corner posts. Apply the 3-4-5 rule to the corners and then dig 3′ deep holes into the ground. Plumb the posts with a spirit level and then secure them into place temporarily with braces. Fill the holes with concrete and let it dry out for a few hours.
Fit the 4×4 pressure treated skids between the posts. Align the edges with attention and make sure the corners are square. Drill pilot holes and insert 3 1/2″ screws to lock them to the vertical posts.
Use 4×4 lumber for the intermediary posts. As you can see in the diagram, you need to make notches to several posts.
Fit the posts to the structure of the shed, as shown in the diagram. Make sure the corners are square and plumb them with a spirit level. Use screws to lock the posts to the skids.
Fit the 2×8 beams to the front and back of the shed. Align the edges with attention and then lock the beams to the posts with 3 1/2″ lag screws.
Fit the supports for the kickboards to the back of the shed. Use 2×4 lumber for the supports. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the supports and insert 2 1/2″ screws to lock them to the posts.
Fit the 2×4 supports to the sides of the shed, as well. Use a carpentry square to make sure the corners are right-angled.
Fit the 2×4 supports to the front of the shed, as shown in the plans.
Fit the 2×6 header to the opening and then the 2×2 braces. Cut both ends of the braces at 45 degrees and lock them into place with 2 1/2″ screws.
Make sure the edges are flush and check if the corners are square.
I have lots of other shed projects on the site so I recommend you to browse through all alternatives before starting the building project. See all my shed projects HERE.
This woodworking project was about 10×12 run in plans free. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.