This step by step woodworking project is about fish tank stand plans. This article features detailed instructions for building a beautiful fish tank stand. The best part of this project is that you can build the wooden aquarium stand in just a weekend. We have designed the plans to keep the expenditures under control and to involve the least amount of work possible. The fish tank stand has a storage compartment and two front doors that enhance the look of the piece.
When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the tank stand won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day.
Projects made from these plans
Fish Tank Stand Plans
- A – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 30 1/2″ long, 3 pieces – 9 1/4″ long FRAME
- B – 4 pieces of 2×2 lumber – 26″ long LEGS
- C – 2 pieces of 1×2 lumber – 9 1/4″ long, 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 9 1/4″x26″ long 2xSIDE
- D – 2 pieces of 1×2 lumber – 27 1/2″ long, 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood – 26″x27 1/2″ long FRONT FACE
- E – 2 pieces of 2×2 lumber – 27 1/2″ long SUPPORTS
- F – 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood – 9 1/4″x27 1/2″ long BOTTOM
- G – 1 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 12 1/4″x30 1/2″ long TOP
- H – 2 pieces of 1×6 lumber – 12 1/4″ long, 2 pieces – 32″ long TRIMS
Hammer, Tape measure, Framing square, Level
Miter saw, Drill machinery, Screwdriver, Sander
Safety Gloves, Safety Glasses
How to build a fish tank stand
The first step of the project is to build the frame for the tabletop. As you can easily can notice in the diagram, use 2×4 lumber for the components. Cut the components at the right dimensions and drill pocket holes at both ends of the short components. Make sure the corners are square and insert 2 1/2″ screws to lock them together tightly.
Build the side panels out of 3/4″ plywood. Attach the 1×2 cleats to the top and bottom of the panel, as described in the diagram. Add glue to the joints and insert 1 1/4″ finishing nails to get the job done in a professional manner.
Drill pocket holes along the sides and top edges of the plywood panels and secure them to the 2×2 legs using 1 1/4″ screws. Add glue to the joints and leave no gaps between the components.
Build the front panel out of 3/4″ plywood and the supports out of 1×2 lumber. Use glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails to lock the supports to the panel. Drill pocket holes along the sides and top edges. Fit the front panel to the side panels and insert 1 1/4″ screws to lock them together tightly. Make sure the corners are square before inserting the screws.
Continue the project by fitting the 2×2 supports to the face of the fish tank stand. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the supports and secure them to the sides using 2 1/2″ screws. Make sure the corners are right-angled.
Continue the woodworking project by attaching the frame to the top of the structure. Align the edges with attention, making sure they are perfectly flush. Insert 2 1/2″ screws through the top of the stand into the 2×4 frame. Leave no gaps between the components and add glue to enhance the rigidity of the structure.
Use 3/4″ plywood to build the top of the aquarium stand. Smooth the edges with sandpaper and attach it to the frame using glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails.
Use 1×6 lumber to build the trims for the top of the stand. Attach the trims to the frame of the stand using 1 1/4″ brad nails and glue. Make sure the corners are square and leave no gaps between the components.
Build the cleats out of 1×2 lumber. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the components and secure them to the structure using 1 1/4″ screws. Check if the corners are right-angled before inserting the screws.
Build the bottom of the stand out of 3/4″ plywood. Smooth the edges with 120-grit sandpaper and fit the sheet to the bottom cleats. Insert a few 1 1/4″ brad nails to lock the sheet to the cleats.
Build the doors panels out of 3/4″ plywood and the frames out of 1×2 lumber. Cut the components at the right dimensions and secure them to the plywood panels using 1 1/4″ brad nails and glue. Leave no gaps between the components and make sure the edges are perfectly flush.
Fit the doors to the opening and secure them to the side using hinges. Leave 1/8″ around the doors and install a magnet door stop. Fit nice handles and then take care of the finishing details.
One of the last steps of the woodworking project is to take care of the finishing touches. Therefore, fill the pilot holes with wood putty and smooth the surface with 120-grit sandpaper.
Top Tip: If you want to enhance the look of the project and to protect the wooden aquarium stand from decay, we recommend you to cover the components with paint or stain.
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